dalvinder45
SPNer
- Jul 22, 2023
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Visit to Orang National Park and Tiger Reserve
Dr Dalvinder Singh Grewal
Prof Emeritus Desh Bhagat University
Today I along with my wife visited Orang national park and tiger reserve which is located adjoining to Kazi Ranga National Park on the north side of Brahmaputra River in the district of Darang and Sonitpur in an area of 504.23 Sq Km. We started from Hathigor near Udalgiri on the national highway to Tezpur. The road was Good but the natural beauty around had however vanished with the cropping of paddy and the earth gave a deserted look. Miles of land looked bare. I was told that the farmers here have only one or at the most two crops in a year. This was different from North India where people have three to four crops each year from the same lands. The pet animals were cows and goats which were of smaller sizes. No buffaloes were seen anywhere. We could not come across any major town for around two hours we travelled to Orang, the location of the National Park which is another 20 minutes’ drive. Orang too is a very small town.
As we reached the national park a well painted gate welcomed us to the office of the National Park. We were received at the tourist reception centre with a gamchha (head gear of cloth) by the Forest Conservator, and taken for a cup of black tea at the guest room. He also briefed about the Reserve and the tourist nature camp.
We were taken to the Guest room where we were briefed about the National Park by the Forest conservator who was also in charge of the entire reserve, its wood, animals and the birds.
Briefing us he said, “It is a natural reserve and due to large population of Bengal Tigers, it is also known as Orang Tiger Reserve. As per survey done in 2022, the reserve has 24 species of mammal; 300 birds’ species and 37 reptile species. Species of fish are 32 type and species are 19 types. Butterflies are of 28 species. However, since 2022 the number of species has increased. In addition, we can also see more than 10,000 deer that spread all around the park. More than 150 rhinos, 60 elephants and around 40 Bengal tigers are its most precious possession. Its Greenland is about 41 square kilometres. There are 13 large ponds (pukhuris) and 36 wetlands. Woodland area is 23.21 square KM. This makes it only the second largest Reserve in Assam after Kazi Ranga.
The
When I questioned about the value of this 500 odd sq. kms forest reserve which he was supposed to be preserving, he told, “They are a great natural asset to our region and hold immense value. These forests fulfil all our needs of timber, fuel, fodder, bamboos and more. They also provide us with a range of goods with significant industrial and economic worth. These woods provide us with a wealth of raw materials for a wide range of goods, including paper, rayon, gums, medications, and more. Apart from that, a sizable portion of the population finds work in forests. People participate in their preservation, harvesting, regeneration, processing of raw materials, and other activities. I employ 260 people to manage the entire reserve. For its safety, even the state police have sent out more than thirty employees. Additionally, when extensive preservation and upkeep are needed, I frequently employ local people. These animals feed on the grass, the trees branches and other natural flora. Our region's physical characteristics are mostly preserved by the trees and growth, which also shields us from the surging Brahmaputra waters. By causing the streams to run continuously, they lessen floods. They keep an eye on soil erosion and stop it. In turn, this greatly benefits our agriculture. Above all, these serve as wildlife habitat. They provide them food and a place to live. For a more sustainable and greener future, it is crucial to preserve these forests and increase their cover. "Nature is an Earth's Treasure which should be considered as a treasure chest, holding precious resources, biodiversity, and beauty, symbolizing the priceless value of the earth's gifts," he said, becoming emotional as he related his own experiences. The forest is a blanket of green.
“The timberland is compared to a cover, symbolizing its defensive and sustaining qualities, covering the soil with its rich greenery. The woods can feel like a delicate, welcoming cover, acting as a shield from the world and the clamour of lifestyle. Nature is compared to the vastness of the sea, symbolizing the boundless and unpredictable forces of the normal world. One of the foremost significant impact natures can have on an individual's other worldly development is the sense of network it cultivates. In today's fast-paced advanced world, we frequently feel disconnected from our environment and each other. Nature offers a cure by establishing us in something bigger than ourselves. Seeing the complicated web of life in nature reminds us that we are small part of a bigger biological system. From the most modest micro-organisms to grand trees, each component plays a part in natural adjustment. This realization can lead to increased mindfulness almost our possess effect on the environment, empowering more economical practices that adjust with spiritual principles like stewardship and regard for all living creatures. It may be a source of inspiration and forethought”.
His briefing was very exhaustive and heart touching too. He appeared as a sage of the woods; the wise guardian of the reserve, symbolising knowledge, experience, and the connection between humans and nature’s deep wisdom. No doubt, he was a yogi who has reached this stage while living among God’s pure creation.
As we got ready for visit to the Reserve Park, we were provided a well-protected open Jeep with a rifle guard as an expert at protecting us from the wild animals which could attack anyone at any time. A guide was to give us the running commentary of the entire reserve.
As we proceeded on the kutcha track into the Reserve, we were aghast to the see the beauty spread ahead of us. The sky covering trees, the earth carpeting wild growth, the chirping birds and crawling reptiles, all were a nature’s bounty.
After about 500 yards ahead in a pond we saw beautiful Crains. They appeared to be migratory birds possibly from Russia. As they saw us photographing, they got into flying mode in which we could capture them from close.
Just ahead we saw a deer coming out from the grassy growth. It watched us intently before he too rushed back to the green growth. However, our smart camera was able to do the trick to photograph it.
As we wanted to see more wild animals on the route, we were lucky to find three more deer with horns busy grazing. They provided us full time to watch their majestic demeanor.
Having seen migratory birds and deer our eyes were watchful to have a look on a Bengal Tiger elephant and a rhino. As we were told that there are over 40 Bengal Tigers, there was a possibility of having a glimpse of some of them. We came across burnt grass in large area. I asked the guide the reason of such a large scale burning. He told us that the rhinos and elephants do not eat dry grass, hence we burn the dry grass so that it comes out green for these two to have their food upon.
The slow-moving jeep had ten watchful eyes into the deep wild nature to locate a tiger, rhino or an elephant. ‘Woh hathi’ a sudden call alert for all of us. A huge elephant was found by the side of the track majestically moving toward us. The driver halted the jeep and the guide raised very special sound raising the gun above his head. The elephant let the way. Meanwhile, we had photographs to our heartful. It had distinctive physical characteristics, including two snow-white tusks and a long trunk that it waggles to get food, drink, and even breathe. It moved into the wild grass, which had grown bigger than these untamed creatures and could conceal itself there.
As we went along, I wanted to know more about the reserve and its animals. While talking we also get some relief from the fatigue from the long journey;
"For what purpose are these two big tusks used?" I asked the guide. “These tusks, which are modified incisor teeth, can grow up to 7 inches annually and continue to develop throughout life”, he explained. “They can reach a length of 6 feet and a weight of 50 pounds. These are the longer, projecting teeth that are usually seen in both sexes' upper jaws. These are employed for self-defence, fighting over females, root digging, and brush removal. Additionally, these shield their trunks, a vital component of an elephant's body. They can protect themselves from predators and even other elephants who might try to attack them or encroach on their territory by using their bulk”. "They weigh so much!" my wife exclaimed. "Male adults can weigh up to 7.5 tons, and females can weigh up to 7 tons," he added. Generally speaking, female elephants are smaller than males. Depending on the species and whether they live in a healthy environment, these animals can reach heights of 8 to 11 feet.
Large molars protrude from the mouths of these animals. Elephants require huge teeth to maintain their food intake because they are large animals. Elephants need big, powerful molars since they spend much of their time eating and chewing bark and woody twigs. These molars usually weigh 4 kg and measure 20 cm in length. Additionally, their molars develop and replace in a different way than those of other mammals. Their molars are replaced horizontally rather than vertically. This is due to the fact that they grow their teeth from the back of their jaws and push forward when their jaws produce another molar. They will have six sets of four molars throughout the course of their lifetimes, which will be replaced as they deteriorate. Elephants may die of starvation after they have used up all of their molars.
"They seem to have incredibly thick skin." I made a comment. "An elephant's thick skin is a very significant physical attribute for its survival," he responded. The elephant's skin is thick and wrinkled for a purpose. The skin around their mouth, and inside their ears is significantly thinner than the rest of their skin, which is around an inch thick. Their wrinkled skin traps moisture, which serves as a cooling mechanism even though they lack obvious sweat glands. Elephants with this kind of skin can remain cold for long periods of time, which is quite beneficial in hotter regions. In order to shield the skin from Ultraviolet radiation, moisture loss, and insect bites, mud is frequently used as a sunscreen. The trunk of an elephant is a special appendage that is utilized for breathing, feeding, drinking, and sniffing. It can assist with lifting and even grasping an object because it has up to 150,000 muscles. Elephants communicate and show their interest in different objects by using their trunks. Because of the ability to discern between different trunks, they are also able to identify food and water sources and detect airborne contaminants.
I quizzed, "Not only is its body excessively big, but its ears are too big and its eyes are little." He seemed to know the answers to all of my queries. “The elephant’s big ears are not only for hearing but also for keeping cool. They can maintain a low body temperature because of the vast surface area, which permits heat to be expelled. Additionally, they have the ability to flap their ears, which keeps them cool in hot weather. Elephants' vision is at best poor, and they are unable to see minute details or identify all colour like humans do. Their small eyes allow them to see only 20 meters, even if their head and neck a big. However, because of a reflecting membrane, they can see well in low light and have great night vision. They can identify predators at night thanks to this.
Gurcharan said, "What are their family systems?" "Elephant social relationships are among the strongest in the animal realm," the guide replied. For the remainder of their lives, they remain together as solid family groupings. These amazing creatures have been seen weeping for their dead, indicating a deep emotional connection between them. This behavioural trait enables them to mentor and safeguard their young as well as one another. Within those groupings, these elephants, who are typically cousins, develop enduring bonds. These groups have also been seen to welcome one another with trunks. They have a longer gestation. Like humans, elephants have sophisticated social structures and are extremely intelligent creatures. They are empathetic and compassionate toward other beings because of their intelligence. Elephants actually often care for other elephants that might be weak or injured. They have close ties to their families and are able to identify members of their herd and decide if they are friends or foes. Elephant calves are far larger than other animal infants, weighing about 260 pounds at birth and measuring 3 inches. Elephants are incredibly smart creatures. They are able to comprehend human languages in addition to communicating with other members of their species. They would detect any action around and had high emotional intelligence. Even the gender of a voice may be determined by these big animals. They are also able to detect when someone is about to hurt or endanger them”.
"Therefore, it seems that they are becoming more intelligent like humans," It seemed really surprising to me. “Indeed, they are. The ability of elephants to craft basic tools from natural materials like sticks or branches is one of their productive behaviours. They swat insects off their skin or scrape themselves with trees. They like bananas. They break green branches from the trees as well to have their fill. Otherwise, wild grass is the alternative food. To stop other animals in the same ecosystem from drinking from the water holes they have excavated, some of them will also put tree branches into them.”
Having enjoyed our {censored}-a-tat with the first huge beast, we were certainly elated but advanced to see furthermore as we became more joyful at our results.
We saw a jungle hut on which it was written ‘Singhbo’ or words to that effect. The guide said: “Singbo means tiger land. We are going to enter the area where tigers have their dens. Some of us were scared but others waiting eagerly for the moment when we would be face to face with the king of this forest.” He asked us to be totally silent. One of us was able to see a squatting tiger. We were alerted and our camera started working. The guide raised his rifle and the animals slowly moved into the high grass.
This was a species of a Bengal tiger. As was told to us during briefing that there were more than 40 Bengal Tigers, we were eager to see many more. After some time, we saw another Bengal Tiger walking past the track. “They appear to be different from each other”; I enquired from the guide about it. He replied, “These tigers were shifted from Kazi Ranga forest from time to time. They did not belong to one breed, hence they have different looks.” You say that there are around 40 tigers in the reserve, why do not we see them?” was my another inquiry.
He replied, Tigres are most frequently spotted hunting at dawn or dusk. Otherwise, they rest or sleep in deep bushes or high grass. They can blend in with the tall grass because to their vibrant stripes. These assist them stalk and ambush their victim by enabling them to blend in with their surroundings. With a swift spring and a lethal leap, they attack their victims after lying in wait and creeping close enough. They frequently wade in pools to cool off or stand in the shadows. Typically, the male tiger travels by himself. To deter trespassers, it marks its territory with urine, droppings, and scratches. The meat of deer, pigs, or buffalo is what tigers eat, and they may consume up to 40 kg of meat at a time. It might pull its meal to the water point”.
"Otherwise, they seem to be very intelligent and energetic," I suggested. "They are considered to be the smartest big cat," he continued. Their brains are larger than those of a lion or a leopard. They have a longer memory than a human. They surprise their victim by moving through the habitat in silence, thanks to their soft toe pads. A tiger may hunt for 6 to 12 km in a single night. A Bengal tiger's thirty larger, more potent teeth set it apart from other tigers. Tigers are able to communicate by using their ears” he said. Eagerly, we continued to watch for other tigers.
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